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Cut and Sew Glossary


Bias: Fabric cut at 45 degrees to the length or width of the fabric.

Block: A base pattern. New styles are created from this.

Buyer: A person responsible for buying merchandise for a store.
Care Labels: Required labels with information about washing, drying, ironing, bleaching, and dry cleaning on apparel.
C.O.D. (Collect on Delivery): When the payment for items or goods is due upon delivery.
Colorfastness: The ability of a fabric to withstand exposure to sunlight, dry cleaning and laundering without fading or running.
 Contrast: Fabric of a different color or texture to create interest.
CMT: Cut, Make & Trim. The operations necessary to produce a finished garment.
Customs Broker: A business hired by the importer/exporter to provide documentation and entry preparation services required by CCRA and U.S. Customs on behalf of the importer/exporter.
Duty: A tax on imports.
Export: Shipment of goods to another country.
Finding: All components besides fabric used to produce the garment.
First Pattern/Prototype: The first sample garment of a new style.
Flat Sketches: Technical sketches drawn to show the details and specifications.
FOB (Free On Board): Terms of agreement where the seller agrees to deliver merchandise, free of all transportation expense, to the place specified by the contract. Once delivery is complete, the title to all the goods and the risk of damage become the buyer’s.
Full Package Manufacturer: Manufacturer that manages the production from design through to shipping.
Grading: Process of increasing or decreasing the base pattern at specific points to create different sizes. (e.g. small, medium, large)
Grommets: Metal, plastic or stitched holes creating fabric reinforcement at stress points.
Gusset: Added panel of fabric in a seam to provide action movement.
Hand: The way fabric feels to the touch – soft, firm, elastic, etc.
Interfacing: Materials that are fused or sewn to specific areas inside garments to provide shape, support, stabilization and reinforcement.
Lignes: A unit of measure equal to 1/40th of an inch. It is used to describe button/snap size.
Linings: Fabric that increases the aesthetics and performance of a garment by supporting and/or enclosing the interiors of garments or garment components.
Marker: The lay out of all the pattern pieces marked onto paper the width of the fabric for the cutter.
Patch pocket: A pocket added to a garment usually made of self material and without pleats of lining, e.g., a shirt pocket.
Price Point: The prices at which merchandise is offered for sale.
Production Sample: Garments made in the production materials for evaluation of production processes, quality, cost, and performance
Registered Number (RN#): The number registered with the US government that identifies a specific apparel company.   SKU: A number used to track a garment. See: Universal Product Code.2054426

Spreading: The process of laying fabrics onto a table in preparation for cutting.
Swatch: A small sample of fabric.   Target Market: The group of consumers that a retailer markets to.
Top Stitching: A design feature, both decorative and functional, that is an additional means of securing fabric plies whereby the original seam is folded under and sewn down.
Trim: Decorative material on the garment.
Universal Product Code (UPC): One of several barcode symbols used for electronic identification of merchandise. A UPC number is twelve digits that identify both the manufacturer and merchandise item.